Greg Noll [Da Bull] A Pioneer in Surfboard Design
Photo: Surfer Today
-
Greg Noll, often referred to as "Da Bull," is a legendary figure in the world of surfing, known for his pioneering spirit, exceptional skills, and contributions to surfboard design. Born on February 11, 1937, in San Diego, California, Noll became one of the most iconic surfers of the 1950s and 1960s, particularly for his fearless approach to riding big waves.
Early Life and Introduction to Surfing
Growing Up in California: Greg Noll grew up in Southern California, where he was introduced to surfing at a young age. The post-World War II surfing scene in California was burgeoning, and Noll quickly became immersed in it.
Surfing in Malibu: Noll's early surfing years were heavily influenced by Malibu, California, a hub for surfers at the time. He honed his skills on the waves of Malibu and became part of the emerging surf culture that would soon explode in popularity across the United States.
Career and Big Wave Surfing
Move to Hawaii: In the mid-1950s, Noll moved to Hawaii, where he made his mark on the big wave surfing scene. The powerful waves of the North Shore of Oahu, particularly at Waimea Bay, became his proving ground. At a time when surfing waves of this size was considered extremely dangerous, Noll's courage and skill set him apart.
Waimea Bay and Makaha: Greg Noll is best known for his exploits at Waimea Bay and Makaha, where he rode some of the largest waves ever documented at the time. His daring rides at Waimea, starting in 1957, solidified his reputation as a fearless big wave surfer. In 1969, Noll famously rode what was then considered the biggest wave ever attempted at Makaha during a massive swell, a feat that became legendary in the surfing community.
Contribution to Surfboard Design
Greg Noll Surfboards: In addition to his prowess as a surfer, Greg Noll was an influential surfboard shaper. He started his surfboard manufacturing business in the 1950s, producing boards under the "Greg Noll Surfboards" label. His boards were known for their quality and durability, and they became highly sought after by surfers around the world.
Innovations: Noll was a key figure in the evolution of surfboard design. He helped transition surfboards from the heavy, cumbersome wooden boards of the 1940s and 1950s to lighter, more maneuverable designs. His work with balsa wood and later foam and fiberglass construction helped revolutionize the sport, making it more accessible and enjoyable for surfers of all skill levels.
"Da Cat" Model: One of the most famous surfboards produced by Noll was the "Da Cat" model, designed in collaboration with renowned surfer Miki Dora. This board became iconic in the 1960s and is now considered a collector's item.
Legacy and Later Years
Retirement from Surfing: After his legendary ride at Makaha in 1969, Noll largely retired from big wave surfing, though he remained active in the surfing community. He focused more on his surfboard business and later became involved in various other ventures, including commercial fishing in Alaska.
Recognition and Honors: Greg Noll's contributions to surfing have been widely recognized. He was inducted into the Surfing Hall of Fame and the Huntington Beach Surfing Walk of Fame. His influence on the sport is also celebrated in numerous documentaries and books.
Memoir: In 1989, Noll co-authored a memoir titled "Da Bull: Life Over the Edge," which chronicles his surfing adventures and experiences, providing an inside look at the golden age of big wave surfing.
Death and Legacy
Passing: Greg Noll passed away on June 28, 2021, at the age of 84. His death was mourned by the global surfing community, who remembered him as a pioneer, a legend, and a man who pushed the boundaries of what was possible in the sport.
Enduring Influence: Noll's legacy continues to inspire surfers around the world. His approach to big wave surfing, his contributions to surfboard design, and his larger-than-life personality have left an indelible mark on the history of surfing.
Greg Noll's life and career are synonymous with the spirit of adventure and the pursuit of excellence in surfing. His name remains a symbol of courage, innovation, and a deep connection to the ocean.
"Da Bull": The Birth of a Legend
“…Meanwhile, the Californian surfer kept close to the surf industry.
He founded Greg Noll Surfboards and launched a series of publications: "Surfers Annual" (1960), "Surfing Funnies" (1961), and "The Cartoon History of Surfing" (1962).
By 1965, the surfer-businessman opened a 20,000-square-foot surfboard building facility in Hermosa. The extravagant investment allowed him to produce more than 2,000 boards per week in less than a year. The factory had separate rooms for each surfboard manufacturing stage.
One of the famous boards coming out of his assembly line was Mickey Dora's signature model, which featured "Da Cat" hanging on a cross made of two planks. Despite his successful business ventures, Noll never stopped surfing and pushing the limits of wave riding.
Greg's most iconic nickname is "Da Bull."
The moniker was given by Phil Edwards, the first surfer to prove that it was possible to tame the barreling Pipeline waves. Wearing his legendary black-and-white prison-stripe boardshorts, the man who had defied Waimea Bay was ready - and hungry - for more.
The bigmouthed legend was the star of several 1950s and 1960s movies, including "Surf Crazy" (1959), "Gun Ho!" (1963), "Strictly Hot" (1964), and "Golden Breed" (1968). Greg Noll also appeared in a couple of widely acclaimed and viewed films, such as "Ride the Wild Surf" (1964) and the quintessential "The Endless Summer" (1966).
"Da Bull" participated in The Duke Kahanamoku Invitational from 1965 to 1969.
And just when he thought his hey-days were over, Noll dropped into one of the largest waves ever ridden in two decades. On December 4, 1969, Greg paddled into a 35-foot wave at Makaha, Oahu, and was forced to jump off as the mountain wall of water exploded around him.
"It was like looking over the goddamn edge at the big, black pit," Noll wrote in his autobiography "Da Bull: Life Over the Edge."
"Some of my best friends have said it was a death wish wave. I didn't think so at the time, but in retrospect, I realize it was probably bordering on the edge."
A few days later, he saved a seaman from drowning at Waimea Bay.”
Da Bull: Life Over the Edge
Title: Da Bull: Life Over the Edge |
Publisher: North Atlantic Books |
Publication Date: 1989 |
Binding: Soft cover |
Condition: Very Good |
Dust Jacket Condition: No Jacket |
Edition: 2nd Edition |
A pop culture reference of surfing in America today contains 1,500 alphabetical entries and three hundred illustrations to review the activity's most significant contributors, events, equipment, culture, and history. 25,000 first printing.
Add some color to your routine with this two-tone, custom accent coffee mug. This 11oz mug features an accented C-Handle that is comfortable to use, as well as an accented interior to add more contrast and character.
